Bespoke vs made-to-measure: what’s the difference?

A well-fitting suit is a statement of quality and an investment well worth making. Whether it’s your first foray into the world of tailored garments or you’re simply unsure whether you require made-to-measure or bespoke menswear for a particular purchase or occasion, this page outlines the differences, allowing you to decide which option best meets your requirements.

Click on the links below to jump to the relevant section:

• What is made-to-measure?
• What is bespoke tailoring?
• Made-to-measure vs bespoke comparison table
• Do you need bespoke or made-to-measure?
• How New & Lingwood can help

What is made-to-measure?

A made-to-measure suit refers to a suit that’s made from an existing pattern then modified to meet your exact measurements and provide a better fit—for example, if you need a wider shoulder or a shorter length than the ready-to-wear jackets you see in the shop.

At New & Lingwood we specialise in the made-to-measure service.

How does it work?

Measurements and fittings

Made-to-measure—which could also be described as custom-made—differs from a ready-to-wear garment that’s altered to fit you. This is because the tailor takes more measurements.

As with ready-to-wear, you’ll see a range of different style and fit options on the rack in store. The difference is that you’ll meet with a tailor to ensure the garment is made to your exact specifications. The initial appointment should consist of an in-depth discussion with the tailor to establish your requirements. You will then be invited to browse the cloth selection, choose customisation options and, finally, have your measurements taken.

These measurements typically include:

• chest circumference
• shoulder width
• arm length
• bicep circumference
• back length
• waist circumference
• hip circumference
• inside and outside leg
• thigh circumference

Caption: A New & Lingwood tailor making final alterations to a customer’s made-to-measure three-piece suit.

In addition to these measurements, the tailor must also record certain angles and nuances of the wearer’s body, including the slope of their shoulders, the arch of their back and differences in arm length.

After the initial fitting, there are generally no further fittings until you have received your made-to-measure garment or suit. At this point, you might need another fitting so the tailor can make some final alterations.

Customisation options

There are plenty of customisable design features you can expect to tweak with a made-to-measure suit or garment. These include:

• number of buttons on jacket
• pocket style
• trouser pleats
• cuff style
• jacket vent
• linings
• number of cuff buttons and spacing
• lapel style
• collar style
• contrasting thread
• trouser waistband style

Caption: Example of customised lining in a made-to-measure New & Lingwood jacket.

Fabric selection

With our made-to-measure service, you can expect to be offered a selection of thousands of fabrics curated from numerous mills based in both Britain and Italy.

Time taken

You can expect to wait between eight and 10 weeks from the date of ordering for your New & Lingwood made-to-measure suit or garment to be completed.

Once the store receives the piece, they will invite you to try it on so the tailor can, if necessary, make any final alterations.

In summary, ‘made-to-measure’ is defined by the following points:

• Modified from a base pattern
• Plenty of customisable design options
• Thousands of fabrics to choose from
• At least 12 essential measurements taken
• Ready in eight to 10 weeks

What is bespoke tailoring?

‘Bespoke’ has a very specific meaning in tailoring, despite being used frequently as a blanket term to refer to anything custom-made. Technically, it could also be described as custom-made or even made-to-order, but bespoke is more specialist than these generic terms imply.

In its truest sense, bespoke means a suit or garment that’s made entirely from scratch: there’s no base pattern, and a blank canvas for every element from design to measurements to fabrics. London’s Savile Row is renowned as the home of bespoke tailoring. At New & Lingwood, we’re able to offer bespoke garments subject to your requirements upon request—simply enquire with us in store.

How does it work?

Measurements and fittings

Since a new pattern is created for every customer, more measurements are taken than those required for a made-to-measure suit. As with made-to-measure, the tailor must also consider every contour and angle of the wearer’s body, including the slope of their shoulders and arch of their back.

Creating a bespoke suit or garment usually requires at least three fittings, but sometimes five or more. The purpose of these fittings is to allow the tailor to find the most precise fit possible for the wearer.

Customisation options

A truly bespoke garment means there are no limits on design and customisation. Even rare or complex requests can be accommodated—this is why you pay a premium for a bespoke suit.

Fabric selection

As with our made-to-measure service, for a bespoke item you can expect to be offered a choice of thousands of fabrics curated from a variety of mills.

Time taken

A bespoke suit can take up to 80 hours to create—and this doesn’t include fitting sessions. As a guide, you might wait for 12 weeks in total for a fully bespoke suit.

In summary, ‘bespoke’ is defined by the following points:

• New pattern created for each individual
• Several fittings required
• No limits on customisation
• Wide variety of measurements plus figuration (body shape adjustment) details
• Ready in 12 or more weeks

Made-to-measure vs bespoke—a comparison

The table below summarises the defining differences between made-to-measure and bespoke garments.

Do you need bespoke or made-to-measure?

With both made-to-measure and bespoke—providing you’ve chosen a reputable and talented tailor—you can be sure you’re investing in quality that will last you for decades, if not a lifetime.

However, the marked difference between the two means you may need to consider various factors when making a decision, including:

• Budget—you’ll no doubt have a figure in mind and wish to take home the best quality that your money can buy. A good made-to-measure suit might start at £1,295, while fully bespoke requires an investment of at least £3,500.
• Timing and fittings—a fully bespoke suit or garment might take three months or more to create, so consider your ideal turnaround time—and availability for fittings—when making a decision.

Caption: A made-to-measure paisley silk waistcoat, ready for a New & Lingwood customer’s wedding.

How New & Lingwood can help

At New & Lingwood we take pride in our made-to-measure service—read more on our Personal tailoring page. Our tailors can also accommodate bespoke garment orders, subject to your requirements—however, this service is only available on request.

Read more about our esteemed made-to-measure service from our in-house specialist Jamie Hamilton here.

We also offer our customers a comprehensive alterations and repairs service. This includes complimentary trouser hemming, sleeve length alterations on our shirts, and shoe repairs at our Jermyn Street and Eton stores.

To book an appointment at one of our stores, please get in touch.

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